Tribeca Reviews

By Ina Irving

Perpetuating the theme of three, like its namesake, the triangle below Manhattan’s Canal Street, Tribeca offers patrons a chic restaurant upstairs and a bistro grille and piano bar lounge downstairs. The owners have done a fantastic job of refurbishing the former Café Amore spot, inside and out, and display a photo gallery on the Web site, with shots of leather furniture, impeccably set white linen-dressed tables and brick backgrounds.

Expecting to find Tribeca booming during Valentine’s week, we had a surprisingly intimate Monday evening meal in the bistro, with only a lively group in the raised alcove at the back of the room, and two other couples. For premium palates choosing to dine upstairs, I was told the “dinner” menu is the only choice, with starters ranging from $6-$11 and entrees from $21 (chicken carbonara) to $37 (rack of lamb). Those who don’t mind dining on street level can peruse both the dinner and the “grille” menus (entrees $14-$32).

While I was thrilled that my Mister was going for the pan-roasted pork ($17), I wasn’t seduced by the 16-ounce sirloin or the petite tenderloin. I wasn’t starving for the beef, chicken and sausage mixed grill. Neither swordfish, salmon, haddock nor yellowfin tuna were able to reel me in. The hearty grilled breasts, meatloaf and cioppino, from among the bistro entrees, did not pique my interest.

When our server, Jonathan, recommended the “catch of the day,” tilefish, in a tomato vinaigrette, with white asparagus, I was intrigued. I had never sampled tilefish.

“It tastes like lobster.” Say no more, Jonathan; say no more.

I ordered Chateau Ste. Michele reisling ($6) from a list of 30 wines by the glass ($6-$20), from the ubiquitous Beringer to the worldly Roland LaGarde bordeaux. My creature of habit ordered Bombay and tonic ($9), and we enjoyed a basket of hard-crust rolls, hot and tender on the inside and heavenly with creamery butter.

My husband’s meal, juicy maple-glazed pork accompanied by crispy sweet potato fries and dark, green asparagus, was a veritable festival of flavor. The caramelized apple and onion topping added a delightful, tart and savory counterpoint to the meat’s enhanced sweetness.

My entrée was an homage to gastronomic subtlety. The generous tilefish filet was tender and firm. A filling specimen of mild, white fish, I could not detect any lobster sweetness. Several fat stalks of pale asparagus fanned out from the filet. Fibrous and juicy, this white counterpart was modest compared to its earthier green relative. Three delicate potatoes were cooked, skin-on, to a perfect balance of firm, and yielding to the bite. The zesty red vinaigrette provided a splash of color and flavor.

For dessert, the yin-yang cake was truly a play of opposites. Three fudgy chocolate layers managed to be luscious and light, embraced by smooth, creamy white chocolate filling. The belt of strong espresso from a child’s tea set-sized cup was just the jolt I needed to prepare me for the cold ride home, and to pay the bill-$82.95 before tip.

Tribeca boasts attractive features: American cuisine “with a twist,” a 120-label wine list and live entertainment. We experienced fine food and service, but I think what will set Tribeca apart from the upscale start-ups and the stalwart favorites is yet to emerge.

Last Updated ( Thursday, 01 March 2007 )

TriBeCa: Creating a `Taste of Manhattan'

Some of you might know this already, but for those of you who don't: TriBeCa, 92 Shrewsbury St., Worcester, officially is open. After more than four months of renovating the two floors of the former Amore Cafe, Brian Dugan and Steven Greene, both of Shrewsbury, gave it a thumbs up.

Dugan owns B.M. Dugan Co. in Shrewsbury, an interior design business, and worked for more than six years at the Whistling Swan restaurant in Sturbridge, when it was owned by the Lofgren family. Greene also works in another business.

Executive chef is Gary Killeen, former owner of Thymes Square on Hudson in Worcester, with his sister Jean Killeen. Jean will add a touch of professional zing to the desserts served at TriBeCa.

Dugan said the architecture of the restaurant revolves around three different areas. On the first floor, a dessert and piano bar features live music and seats about 40. A Bistro Grille caters to the casual luncheon and dinner crowd in a room that accommodates about 60.

Fine dining is in The Restaurant on the second floor, where there is small bar, a private function room for about 30 and a glassed-in wine storage room. More than 30 wines are available by the glass.

An elevator on the first floor accommodates the handicapped who want to eat upstairs.

"Our idea is to bring a taste of Manhattan to the city," Dugan said. The restaurant's name is taken from Tribeca in New York, which stands for the "triangle below canal," an area known for creative cuisine and a lively bar scene.

A sample of TriBeCa's bistro entrees: Sauteed lamb pastitsio, $15, cioppino, $23, pan roasted pork tenderloin, $17; grille entrees: Center-cut beef tenderloin, 12 ounces, $27, mixed grill (tenderloin sausage and chicken), $24, and haddock, $18. Vegetarian choices include vegetable Napoleon, $14, and butternut squash ravioli, $12.

The menu offers a good variety of appetizers, soups and salads. Wood-grilled pizza also is available.

Upstairs, specialty items include: Veal tenderloin, $29, rack of lamb, $37, Arctic char, $24, and duck breast au poivre, $23.

Expect to fork over $7 to $8 for dessert.

Hours: The Bistro Grille: Dinner, 5 to 10 p.m. Sunday through Thursday; 5 to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday. The Restaurant: Tuesday through Sunday, 5 to 11 p.m. The bar is open daily until closing. Valet service.

Lunch, 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m., will begin the day after Thanksgiving. Call (508) 754-7600 for reservations.

We think you will be pleasantly surprised with what TriBeCa offers.

The former Cafe Amoré, stunningly remodeled, dazzles as TriBeCa.

We chose the upstairs, the largest part of the new restaurant, offering dinner seating for more than 100 in three areas. It’s spacious and elegant, with an adventurous menu. First-floor seating for lunch and dinner at the Bistro Grille is more casual and less expensive.

The executive chef is Gary Killeen, formerly of Thymes Square. His sister, Jean, is pastry chef. Although reservations are encouraged, we walked in at about 7 on a recent Friday evening and were seated right away.

Subtly colored and lit, the upstairs combines brick walls, white moldings and columns and patterned carpet. A small bar serves the second floor and an elevator is tucked away near the stairs. The sections of the upstairs level can be open or closed off for parties. Brass-studded upholstered chairs border white tablecloths with fresh flowers. The effect is at once refined and relaxing.

A delightful complimentary chef’s plate began our dinner: olive tapenade, chopped chicken liver and pureéd eggplant served with grilled pita and thin breadsticks. I was delighted with both the eggplant and the chicken liver; the olive spread was excellent, but not one of my favorites. The chef’s plate is a nice gesture, and it was first-rate.

I was tempted by carpaccio on flatbread with tomato salsa and a portobello Napoleon with Asiago cheese — and crab cakes, but eventually chose a crab and artichoke flan for $11. The portion was more than generous, with plenty of perfect crabmeat, but I found the flavor surprisingly flat. Other than the good crabmeat, which really came through, there was little to note; the opposite of what one usually fears with a crab dish (that the delicate crab would be overwhelmed).

The Soup Goddess began with the soup du jour, turkey and portobello with spinach, $4.We disagreed on this soup. She enjoyed it, I didn’t — but she is the Soup Goddess. I thought the taste was odd.

She thought I was objecting to the spinach (not so) and she finished every drop.

The entrees include a filet, sirloin, bone-in rib eye steak, veal tenderloin and rack of lamb. Simply the best possible cuts of meat there are, priced at $26 to $37. Salmon, swordfish, shrimp and Arctic char make a good seafood selection; add chicken, duck, mixed grille and a lobster-scallops-shrimp combination for a quite complete menu.

The Soup Goddess chose the mixed grille, a lamp chop with mint pesto, an herb and garlic veal tenderloin and a sausage of duck and smoked bacon, for $32. The plate was flawless; all three meats were superb. We were both particularly taken with the sausage …unusual and unusually delicious. I enjoy the variety of mixed grilles, and this one was right on target.

Alongside was excellent asparagus and respectable au gratin potatoes.

She enjoyed a $12 glass of fine Carmel Road California pinot noir with the grille. It’s one of perhaps 30 wines offered by the glass as part of TriBeCa’s remarkable, intriguing wine list.

My choice was a pair of beef tornados with shiitake mushrooms, snow peas in a fresh ginger and garlic bourbon cream sauce, $29. The beef was certainly